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New Zealand Semester in Environmental Studies

Updates from the Field

New Zealand Semester 2008

May 1, 2008

Well, we have reached the end of the 2008 program in New Zealand and what an adventure it was! Since our last update, we spent the last several weeks in Christchurch completing courses while also participating on a series of day trips to look at "business and sustainablity" kiwi style. These real-world glimpses into how businesses and corporations were responding to the challenges of climate change, globalization, and ethical practices proved to be a surprising highlight of the program for many of us. In particular, our visit with Richard Lloyd at Becon Canterbury (an industrial waste recovery plant) was a real paradigm buster for all of us. Becon takes waste from industry located all around Canterbury and basically sorts it and re-sells it, keeping 85% out of the landfill (which represents a staggering total of all landfill waste both in New Zealand and globally). As Richard reminded us, it puts curbside recycling initiatives in serious perspective (they are barely a drop in the bucket compared with industrial waste). His company is just four months old and is already turning a healthy profit as he finds second markets for everything from dry wall, to wood pallets, to metal. As we joked with him about how lucrative this new market was and asked about whether he considered "mining" old landfills for more product he responded, "actually, I have two pending contracts out to do just that." Here is the new world, where landfills will be mined for what previous generations threw away. As Richard said, "there is no waste, only lost opportunities..."

We also had a chance to meet with the 2007 New Zealander of the year, Peri Drysdale, who is the CEO of Untouched World, the only clothing company in the world to receive recognition from the United Nations for their efforts in sustainability and education. While our visit with Peri was brief, it was an honor to meet such an influential global figure in the environmental movement. One last day trip to a local "green" dairy farm also revealed glimpses into a future with minimal "waste." Here, they were converting effluent from the dairy cows into a bio-digester, powering most of the farm through methane gas. The particular model we saw received the environmental concept of the year award in New Zealand and the company expects to see it implemented nationally within several years. As the company spokesperson Tristen reminded us, "distributed energy, energy generated from the nodes and not the center, is the wave of future for energy production and sustainability." Inspiring and thought-provoking stuff.

Speaking of which, we ended the program with a bang by heading up to Abel Tasman for one final expedition sea kayaking and hiking in the national park. It was a fitting way to end our time in New Zealand with stunning sunsets, beautiful bird calls and mountain scenery, and the chance to say goodbye both to the group and to this beautiful country. Highlights included rather "cramped" stays in small huts on the Inland Track, seal pups "visiting" with us on our sea kayaks, and groups of playful and acrobatic dolphins seen both near and far.

The program ended with a final celebration dinner at the University where all the host families and some of the lecturers from our time in Canterbury joined our students for a last goodbye. It has been a truly special and unique program (being the first!) and I can only imagine future Earlham students continuing to build on the connections, relationships, and memories that we have started here. Haere ra (farewell) from Aotearoa!

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April 8, 2008

Tomorrow begins the last week of lectures at the University of Canterbury and final days in our field placement service sites before we conclude with students' culminating presentations of learning and then it's off, one last time, for our final group excursion. Where has the time gone?

The last entry in March left us heading for Kaikoura, once a thriving whaling town on the coast about 3 hours north of Christchurch, now a green globe certified destination spot that had a lot to offer us. We invaded the Dusky Lodge, a friendly backpackers with many fine amenities (fireplaces, lounge spots, a pool, a hot tub, even a thai restaurant in the back yard!). The morning of our first full day had us checking the skies, and most importantly the seas, to ensure that our scheduled dolphin encounter was indeed going to be a reality. Although the skies were foggy and wet, the seas were calm and so we began our orientation and got outfitted with wet suits and snorkel gear and left for the boats. It is hard to describe what swimming with hundreds of wild dusky dolphins in their sea as they frolic around and sometimes check you out (especially if you were humming an interesting tune or trying to mimic their acrobatics) - it is amazing, it is surreal, it is now an incredible memory. Before it was all over, the seas had shifted to 'moderate' which meant that some of us were more comfortable than others as we spotted albatross and other sea birds on our way back to the docks. Before it was all said and done, we had an opportunity to meet with the owners of Dolphin Encounters to learn more about the eco-tourism industry and its impact on native life, both human and non-human.

Later that afternoon we visited with representatives from Kaikoura's City Council to learn more about the unique struggles they have in regards to their green globe certification (one of only three communities in the world with this designation). Kaikoura is aiming to be a zero-waste community which is a lofty goal as the city planners themselves admit. But, it was interesting to see a town that so clearly depends on "eco-tourism" attempt to but their money where their mouth is by actively working toward sustainability.

We spent our final day with Maurice, the owner of a local Maori guiding company. He and his partners and family took us on a tour of local spots that had special spiritual and historical meaning to the local Maori people (Nga Tahu). We had lunch back at the Marae where we undertook a small service project and then settled in to listen to stories describing the ornate panels overhead in the Meetinghouse (whare nui) where we had all gathered. It had been a while since we had such a warm, immersive Maori experience and it made some of us long for our time back on the North Island.

As we said good-bye to Kaikoura, the perfect place to continue our foray into environmental studies and to celebrate the end of the first half of our semester, we said hello Spring Break, a time for all of us to take on individual or small group adventures, even some senior comps for one lucky biology major.

Following "Spring Break" (which is really Fall break in New Zealand) we all headed out to the West Coast for a week-long case study in sustainability and energy issues. Basing out of the Rough and Tumble eco-lodge near Seddonville, we explored the complexities of the costs and benefits of energy usage and production. Marion and Susan, the lodge owners, set the case up well by explaining how the Mohikinui river (which runs right by their remote bush lodge) is targeted to be the next big hydroelectric project for Meridian energy- New Zealand's state owned "green" energy company. The dam would put the gorge upstream of the lodge under 300 feet of water and change the surrounding ecosystem of native forest permanently. But, it would also supply "carbon-neutral" energy to the entirety of the West Coast of New Zealand. During the week, students explored all facets of this case, from the natural and cultural history of the area, to a rather amazing tour of the local coal mine (the largest in new Zealand), to a face-to-face meeting with the two lead geologists and project planners for the dam from Meridian energy. In the end, many students were very conflicted about where to stand on the project and the case study served as a reminder to all about the complexities and difficult decisions that come to play in modern environmental problem solving.

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Below is a selection of student reflections on their experience at the half-way point of the semester...

Reflecting back on my time in New Zealand thus far, the personal challenges have been numerous. I knew these situations would arise while overseas, as we all "know" before embarking on such a journey, but nothing ever truly prepares you for where your head and heart go once you get there. Globally, New Zealand is a land of beautiful landscapes, Lord of the Rings, and no nuclear weapons. Many flock here to escape our chaotic world of work and school in the States, to gain a glimpse of "nature" and the wild in its authentic form. Personally, and subconsciously, I came to New Zealand not only for all the above reasons, but to escape from the ever-present issues of race, class, and economic stance that effect my life as a AAAS major and a middle-class, mixed woman. I came here to get away from issues of race, to free my head of all the baggage and weight that comes along with being who I am and studying what I do. While I wouldn't change a thing, a break was needed, a chance to look at life without societal pressures and expectations from home. Within our first month on the North Island, I learned how utterly ridiculous this "escape" mentality was. As I shared some of these thoughts with my newly adopted family on a marae during our Waka Tours river trip, Uncle Baldy, a favorite amongst the guys, told me despite the distance I had traveled, that all I was really looking for was myself. Of course, these words had been said to me throughout the years, but coming from an elder, a man of true sincerity and heart, they finally sunk in. I suppose what I am trying to share is that while it is absolutely beneficial and maybe even necessary for us to travel the world and expand our horizons, we must also keep in mind that in doing so, we are only coming closer to ourselves. What we are truly seeking in life isn't thousands of miles from home, but can be found just by looking in the mirror. - Monica Black

There are not many redemptive qualities about gorse. It is thicker, sharper, and sturdier than any thistle I have ever known, and is an exotic species almost impossible to control. It grows everywhere, particularly in pasture and grassland. Rather counter-intuitively though, it is these exact qualities that make it a fascinating tool of ecological repair.

The Banks peninsula, a volcanic island that was joined to the mainland several million years ago, was once dense native forest. At one point less than 1% of the landmass of the peninsula was still forest, owing to the land transformation to sheep farming. Those interested in forest regeneration know that Nothofagus and Podocarp trees cannot grow out of thick grass. Native forest can, however, spring from gorse and kanuka, which in turn can grow in grassland. Once these natives spring above the colonizers, they kill them with their shade. This is the aim of the Hinewai regeneration project.

As such, Hinewai is a fascinating lesson in both ecological humility and understanding regenerative systems. Humility, in that the ecologist cedes her agency to nature, letting a nasty invasive, exotic play a keystone role in creating a native forest. And an understanding of regenerative systems, by looking through gorse as an exotic and understanding the niche it occupies. Surely, there are lessons to be learned here, bigger than just making friends with our former foe - ulex europeus.- Jonathon Jenner

Our group has been moving and busy so much that it completely caught me by surprise to realize the program has reached its halfway mark. It is difficult to describe all that we have done, because the learning, fun, culture shock, and more have come together to provide a unique experience. A time on this program when I really appreciated experiential learning was our time at Cass Research Station. We started the morning with a natural history lecture from our field guide about alpine ecosystems. We learned about adaptive radiation, and how alpine plants will become smaller and more compact to protect themselves from the cold and wind. Later that morning, the group hiked up into the alpine area behind the research station, and saw two types of hebe: one lower on the mountain, and one higher up. We could identify the plant, and see the difference in its appearance because of its surrounding climate, something we had heard someone explain to us just hours beforehand. This program has been filled with moments of recognition as we transfer the classroom into our wilderness excursions, homestays, service placements, and even free time in the cities. Each piece of the program adds to the others, and helps the whole experience be an educational and enjoyable one. -Susan Blythe-Goodman

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March 10, 2008

After several weeks of academic study and field placements in the city, we were all excited to get out of town and head south to Fiordland and Mt Aspiring National Parks to complete one of New Zealand's "great walks" - the Routeburn Track. The great walks system is an interesting case study in land management and is a far cry from some of the "wilderness" areas of the states (though kiwis do also have designated wilderness). The track is well graded and maintained and, each night, you wind up in a rather posh hut complete with cooking stoves, bunk beds, and a heat source (usually a coal stove). The atmosphere in the huts is quite the multicultural experience with Taiwanese mixing it up with Italians, Swedes, Brits, Aussies, and, of course, we "Yanks." All this allows thousands of trampers to enjoy this remote and unspoiled area without much impact (outside of the huts, of course). We had an enlightening talk with several of the DOC huts wardens who explained the philosophy behind the great walk system as well as some of their more interesting challenges (including waste removal by helicopter and water needs- the average person in a hut uses 68 liters!). It is easy to see why the Routeburn is described by some as one of the greatest hikes in the world even with our relatively wet weather (raining 7 out of 7 days!). The nothofagus (Southern Beech) forests were incredible and the views (when we could get them) revealed mountains, waterfalls, and snow-capped peaks for many miles around.

After our trip south, returned for more classes at the University including talks about Biosecurity and Conservation practices by Dr. Hamish Cochran. Hamish described himself as an "expert in killing things" and went on to describe the fascinating world of both conservation of endemic species as well as the eradication of invasives. In the end, as we learned, it is work rife with ethical quandaries about what to value, when, and where. What do you do when it turns out there are MORE kiwi in a monoculture forest of introduced Monterey Pine than in an endemic beech forest? This proved to be an excellent precursor to our excursion to the Banks peninsula and the Hinewai project run by Hugh Wilson. Hugh is a botanist who has spent the last 20+ years working to restore native bush on a reserve on the peninsula- but withvery esoteric methods.

Rather than fighting the introduced "pest" gorse bush, he uses it as a nurse plant for native forest succession. The results are spectacular. All around Hinewai, you can see gorse changing over to native beech forest. Hugh calls it "minimum interference management" and it has received quite a bit of attention. We also learned how ecological restoration like this works within the Kyoto treaty agreement as the reserve receives money for "carbon sequestration." It turns out that while Hinewai was a bust as a sheep farm, it succeeds as a reserve. While the whole of NZ cannot go this route, it provides an intriguing glimpse into the economies of the future in relation to climate change.

We are off to Kaikoura tomorrow to learn more about how that community has re-positioned themselves in this new economy toward "eco-tourism" as well as their attempts to become one of the most environmentally sustainable communities in NZ.

Morning meeting above Routeburn Falls Hut	Students working at their field placement, the Lyttleton Project	Dressing up as a Hector's dolphin and campaigning for the Forest and Bird Society is just one of the many talents our students have on display during their field placements!

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Feb. 19th, 2008
Christchurch, S. Island

Learning to weave native flax on the North Island	Day hike to the summit of Sugarbush Mountain, Cass

We have finally settled in to our new homes on the South Island in the city of Christchurch. We arrived here after leaving our first “home” at the Settlement in Whanganui and traveling down to Wellington and then across the Cook Strait to the South Island. Before we left the North Island, however, we were able to visit Kapiti Island- a Department of Conservation Bird Sanctuary located off the west coast just above Wellington. This proved to be quite a highlight for all of us as we had the opportunity to see (and hear) a variety of bird species not present on the mainland due to predation by invasive pests such as possum, stoats, and rats. Only 50 visitors are allowed on the island per day so we felt very fortunate not only to visit for the day but to get the chance to spend the night at a Maori-owned eco-lodge. Highlights included everyone seeing the Stichbird (only about 3,000 left in the world) as well as Takahe (about 350 left in the world). Many of us were “attacked” by the Kaka- a native parrot that enjoys stealing your lunch right out of your hand. After a day of great birding, we took the ferry over to the north end of the island to the Kapiti Alive ecolodge where we were greeted by John and his family whose homestead was “grand-fathered” into the park as their family had lived there for several generations. It was a great place to relax and take in the scenery. While swimming in the bay, one of our students (Brian) had a face to face encounter with a very curious seal! We also saw large rays swimming in the shallows and several students enjoyed snorkeling in the crystal clear water. That night, John and his staff took us out “kiwi spotting” and, while we were told not to get our hopes up, it was difficult not to get excited about the possibility of seeing the little spotted kiwi in the wild (one of the only places left where this rare bird can be seen unfortunately). We heard them almost immediately, they make a very haunting whistle call which echoes through the

forests and hills at night. Amazingly, every scout group that night saw a kiwi and some had extended looks as the bird scampered around our feet or held still in the grass. As if that was not a highlight enough, as we walked back to the lodge, John spotted another nocturnal bird, the Little Blue Penguin, and we were all able to have a great view of this cute and curious little fellow as he scampered down the path. Overall, the students were really struck by the need in New Zealand for these “island reserves” and it inspired a great conversation that night about environmental ethics and philosophy about what we consider “wild” and why and how places like Kapiti can be a double edged sword- saving species that would otherwise likely go extinct but also furthering the human-nature divide by suggesting that human progress need not be slowed or altered so long as we can have these “zoos” on a grand scale. John was quick to remind us all that New Zealand is not as “green” as the international tourism image would suggest. All in all it was a truly memorable time on Kapiti full of learning and amazement.

After a few days off in Wellington, we took the ferry across to the South Island and all were impressed by the changes in landscape, climate, and culture from the North Island. Arriving in Christchurch, students had to adjust to the challenges of beginning their homestays and a more intense cultural immersion into a segment of kiwi culture. We also began our classes at the University of Canterbury and enjoyed some very informative talks on island biogeography and New Zealand flora and fauna by lecturers from Lincoln University and the Canterbury museum. After an intense week, we were all ready for a bit of a break as we headed up to the Cass Research station up in the southern “Alps” just west of Christchurch. Joining us was our guide, Terry Thompsen who was a joy to have as he helped us understand some of the key ecological features of alpine plant communities in NZ as well as loads of other facts and concepts about New Zealand’s south island environments. A highlight from the excursion was a day hike up to the summit of the mountain directly behind the research station which proved to be quite a challenge for all. Along the way, we all had a great look at the Kea- New Zealand’s alpine parrot hanging out on the rocks and we all enjoyed the 1,000 foot descent down the scree slope which you could practically “ski” down on your boots- 4 hours up, 40 minutes down!

Students also began their field practicum when we arrived in Christchurch. These placements are with agencies and schools to facilitate more cultural interaction and informal learning while in country. Students are participating in a range of projects and experiences from working with the sustainability coordinator at the local university to participating in community action projects to volunteering in schools. For many of the students, this experiential cultural immersion has been a great way to connect with New Zealand culture in a more informal way.

Students are now just finishing up their 4-day farm stays in and around the Canterbury region and will have another couple of days of classes and service before we head out to the far south to experience to classic walk called the Routeburn Track in Mt. Aspiring National Park. Till then!

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January 26, 2008

We have just completed the first two weeks of our program here in Aotearoa (New Zealand) and already it feels like we have experienced so much. We all arrived here at the Quaker Settlement in Whanganui on the North Island of Aotearoa on Jan. 8th and proceeded to be welcomed warmly and generously by the residents here. The Settlement is a Quaker run education and retreat center that also houses full-time residents (or settlers) in homes and apartments that surround the complex. It is a very special place as residents really attempt to live out values of spirituality, simplicity, environmental awareness, and peaceful association. There is lots of organic farming, orchards, chickens, and even a few sheep and cows. The entire complex is large enough to house a nice walking track and attracts lots of native birds. We have already identified several endemics (found only here) including the Tui, the Bellbird, and the Kereru (Native Pigeon). Their calls are so foreign and haunting and it reminds us of how far we are from home.

We began our studies in earnest with an intense and informative "treaty workshop" with two Quaker facilitators who have done similar social justice work all over the country. They helped us understand the historic and modern contexts for Maori-Pakeha (non-Maori) relations here in New Zealand as well as introduce us to some of the specific history in Whanganui. Quakers were involved in supporting a "stand-off" over land in downtown Whanganui called Pa Kaitore and helped form a ring of support around the Maori protestors-getting in between the police and the Maori. It has formed a special bond between the local iwi (tribe) and NZ Quakers ever since which was very special to hear.

Following the treaty workshop we had another Quaker, Anne Potaka, spend a day with us teaching us the basics of Maori language and pronunciation. Being part-Maori, she also gave us a very moving biography of growing up both Maori and Pakeha and experiencing the "racial two-ness" similar to that which WEB Dubois writes about in the Souls of Black Folk. We learned about Maori kitanga (protocols) in coming on to marae's (sacred land) and even a song to sing during the powhiri (welcoming ceremony).

After a week at the Settlement, we took our first big field trip to Tongariro National Park- the second oldest NP in the world by some accounts to try our luck at the famed Tongariro Crossing considering by many to be one of the best day hikes in the world. It did not disappoint as we were all simply awed by seeing not one, not two, not three, but FOUR volcanoes on that hike in addition to sulfur pits, emerald lakes, and native bush. I didn't think a hike could live up to that amount of hype but in this case it actually exceeded our expectations. It proved to be a real highlight.

Following that, we shifted gears once again and spent 2 days with local botanist Colin Ogle who gave us a detailed overview of New Zealand flora and fauna and took us out to a great example of a remnant patch of native forest or "bush" as they say here. There is so little left of the native bush that seeing it really placed into stark relief what dramatic changes have occurred in this country in the last 150 years. We also took a day trip to Bushy Park- a native reserve just outside of Whanganui and got a wonderful tour with their resident rangers. We were able to get a rare glimpse at a Tieke or Saddleback bird of which there are only 6,000 individuals left in the world. Hearing its song was at the same time magical and melancholy as we realized there is a good chance that song may vanish from the world in our lifetime.

All of this was a warm-up for our first big overnight experience on the Whanganui river with Waka tours. It is very difficult to put into words what this experience was for us. Waka tours is a Maori-owned guide company that does cultural and educational tours on the Whanganui river in 6-person canoes (waka's). We were fortunate to be one of only 13 groups they guide during the year and the experience was simply transformative. We traveled for four days down the river through the national park and stayed at marae's each night experiencing the porwhiri (welcome) and learning the proper kitanga (protocols). They shared the stories of the river with us, introduced us to their history and their ancestral lands, and talked openly about the current state of affairs (both good and the challenging) of te reo Maori (the Maori world). It was a very emotional and moving journey for us all. Niko, our head guide, told us at the beginning that we would not be seen as tourists but a whanau (family). While I thought it was a nice gesture I was somewhat skeptical of such a statement. But, as I listened to our students say (some with tears in their eyes) how much the experience meant to them during the final nights sharing it became clear to me that this was much more than just a canoe trip. We had made real friends and relations with those we had traveled with and all of us had been changed by the experience. On the trip, we learned the Maori phrase "Ko au te awa, ko te awa ko au" which means "I am the river and the river is me." I think this sums up what all of us felt after that transformative four days.

While it is difficult to imagine leaving this special place, we will be departing in two days for the South Island. On the way, we will visit an island nature preserve called Kapiti Island as well as tour around the capital city of Wellington. Until our next update: teina kouto, teina kouto, teina kouto katoa (greetings to you all).

Submitted by Jay Roberts

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